Wiring Tri-Clock

Before I can finish closing up the torso, I need to deal with all the wiring. Basically, these wires need to be shortened, and half of them need to be connected to the other half. Most of the wiring is related to the old wiring harness, but I had to add a few things.

On the underside of the main board, I attached a wire to the input from the switch in the neck, that detects when Tri-Bot's head is thumped (orange wire). I also added a wire to the input for the IR receivers (green wire), so that the micro-controller can send fake IR signals to Tri-Bot's brain. There is also some wiring from the modified shoulder joint, since I've only modified the one shoulder so far, I left some spare wiring for when the second shoulder is modified.

Next up I sliced up one of the wires for the for the speaker, and ran the two new wires down into the base, so that the micro-controller can enable or disable the speaker at will. I also did the same thing for the power for the head motor, but I seem to have forgotten to take a photo after I finished doing it.

You may have noticed that there are a lot of empty sockets, that because I unplugged all the IR Receivers and LEDs. Tri-Clock doesn't need obstacle avoidance, and I can reuse them in the rover that I am turning Tri-Bot's base into.


All done, all nice and neat. Some of the wiring is already tucked away inside the shell. Unfortunately I ran out of suitably sized heatshrink a while ago, so the joins are covered with electrical tape. Inside the base is an impressive bundle of wire, over 2/3's of them are for the LED display, the rest go to Tri-Bot. You may have noticed the little note taped to the inside, that's so I don't forget which wire coming from Tri-Bot's torso is which.

Well, that's it for now.